A History: ’s Word of the Year

Quicksilver on December 30, , The following experiment may not work. I am not sure if this is a good idea or not. I may return the car to the stock setup. Those with sharp eyes will notice there is no signal line for the wastegate. That’s because we believe that it should either be after the throttle body where the turbo can compensate for the pressure drop from the throttle itself, or just at the turbo outlet for more precise control.

Custom Built Turbo For Pro X 2

It is an opportunity for us to reflect on the language and ideas that represented each year. So, take a stroll down memory lane to remember all of our past Word of the Year selections. Change It wasn’t trendy , funny, nor was it coined on Twitter , but we thought change told a real story about how our users defined

I traced out the vacuum line going to the boost sensor on the passenger side of the car – and it is in fact going to a tap that IS downstream of the TB.

Does your regulator have 2 or 3 ports? If it has a 3rd then just let that one vent to atmosphere, if there are only 2 then you will have to ad a 3way T between the regulator and the upper port on the waste-gate and leave one of the ports opened to vent pressure to the atmosphere. Originally Posted by defiler View Post Sort of a side question: So can you just plug both vaccuum holes and just run off the spring on the wastegate?

I have one blocked off on my Deltagate and one goes to the MBC Whcih goes to the turbo outlet No, it will probably never open, if it does it would be at much higher boost then the springs strength, and far into the power band. Spool would be normal so would response, external waste-gates are on the same principal as the stock waste gate, its opened by boost trough the exhaust and boost through the vacuum line, unlike most BOV that use boost pressure through the vacuum line to hold the flap shut, a Waste-Gate needs the boost pressure from the vacuum hose to open.

It would be the same as disconnecting or blocking of the Vacuum line going to the stock wastegate and hopeing the waste-gate opens before the engine blows. Originally Posted by evo View Post When I ran mine I used the lower port connected to the turbo and left the top port to vent to atmosphere.

Wastegate And Bov Hookup

The wastegate, which diverts exhaust away from the turbos, is controlled by a combination of air pressure and the engine’s ECU. Air pressure in the wastegate actuator opens the wastegate. The higher the pressure the more the wastegate opens. Airflow “in” to the wastegate actuator comes from the turbos themselves and is reduced by a restrictor pill in the vacuum line between the primary turbo and the wastegate actuator. Airflow “out” of the wastegate actuator is regulated by a solenoid that is rapidly cycled open and closed at a rate dictated by maps in the ECU.

Air pressure in the wastegate actuator controls the wastegate which varies boost.

Also with many solenoids removed there remains the electrical connectors and harness.

Truthfully, there hasn’t been much going on with the BOV re-design smokin’ There was a lot of extra work going into the turbine housing on this set. I haven’t yet decided whether I am going to rework this one or buy an aftermarket external wastegate and re-work it, since the valving and materials will be more precise than I can produce in my garage!! Plus if I can make an aftermarket work, it will be much easier to duplicate and spread the intel to all my fellow bombers!

I know some of you are in the performance aftermarket arena. If someone is willing to send me an old external wastegate I will perfect the diesel BOV and let everyone else know how to do it. Any old gate will do, as long as it has two ports on it I have to be able to apply pressure to both sides of the diaphram. If all I could get my hands on is a version with one port, I suppose I could modify it, but once again, this would complicate the process for everyone else as well.

Might take a few more months before anything new happens. So shake the bushes and round up all your gasser buddies and rattle a wastegate out of the trees and we’ll get this ball rolling a little sooner.

Boost Incognito

Also included in all our kits: All the silicone boots of the correct size, 8x correct size USA made stainless “T” clamps, boost lines and fittings for the turbo, wastegate and carb to connect. Stainless steel AN -4 oil feed line kit and stainless steel AN turbo drain line and fittings.

Unbolt the oil line banjo bolt and wiggle out the double hard line.

I’ve got a Tial 38mm wastegate on my setup. I have noticed that when I am boosting I get somewhat “spikey” boost, it never really stays consistent. I believe it’s due to the previous owner hooking up the wastegate incorrectly. Currently the side port is hooked to a vacuum line going to the IM, with a manual boost controller on that same line. As per the Tial installation instructions the side port should be attached to the charge pipe in front of the throttle body.

What’s the reason for this, and is it something that MUST be done for correct operation. Can it be run attached to the manifold as it is now?

A History: ’s Word of the Year

I noticed that if you push on the bottom of the bov, it actually would get stuck and not close all the way. I took a little bit of grease, put it on the rubber where it would get stuck and perfect. Valve moved very freely and sprung back to the closed position.

This is the most precise method since each actuator will vary some with regard to the spring tension internally since they age differently and the heat cycles from the turbo can harden the spring in some cases.

This seemed to be a good dry, non heated pace in the middle of my pressure sources and wastegate. Now for the hose routing. It is very important you use the sizes of hose specified in the HKS manual. I used the BOV hose for the 4mm hose from port 1 of the Stepper motor see 2 pictures down. This is for a manifold pressure source after the throttle body. I did not want to use the Fuel pressure source for 2 reasons: The instructions advised against it and you want the hose to be as short as possible.

Insert a T-Fitting into the line as shown to the left. To the left you will see the ports numbered as they are in the manual. Now, go to the “mighty” T turbo and remove the 2 stock hoses from the compressor nipple and wastegate. I rolled mine up and attached them close to the air filter Just in case I needed to hook them back up for stock. I left the other line in the intake tube until I get the Injen or whatever hard pipe intake later.

A History: ’s Word of the Year

Aug 18th, Ok so I got a manual boost control for my 84 zx turbo and i want to make sure im going to put it on right. I was told that you install it to the J looking hose that connects from the turbo to the wastegate. I just thought that there might be more to it then that. AZ-ZBum Aug 21st, It really is that simple.

Since the exhaust drives the turbo, the wategate is mounted there.

I can’t believe anyone didn’t object. The WG needs to open when the pressure in the charge pipes reaches max boost levels. Often, under partial throttle conditions the boost level in the charge pipes will EXCEED the pressure behind the manifold. Meaning, your boost gauge which reads the pressure in the manifold, after the TB will read something like 5 psi, when in reality the charge pipes already have 15 psi of compressed air ready to rush into the intake when you open the throttle.

If you have it hooked up to the vacuum source behind the throttle, you will have a condition where your gauge will see 5 psi, but because the wastegate doesn’t know what the pressure is in the charge pipes, it will stay closed. So what’s gonna happen is you’re gonna have psi in your pipes. The moment you blip the throttle all that pressure is gonna go into your intake manifold. And you’ll be lucky if it only lasts a few seconds.

But also, think about how hard your turbo has to work just to create that pressure. You will most likely overspool the turbo over time.

Understanding External Wastegate Basics

Information contained above this line was not contributed by the owner of this site PAGE 3: Part of the reason I went with the A-Spec kit was the potential to retain use of the OE mechanical air-pump. Other options were available, like using a GM electric air-pump from either a Corvette or Camaro. More work involved and purportedly they have a tendency to burn up rather quickly when used on an RX

Standard wastegates have one port for attaching the boost control line from the charge air supply line or boost control solenoid.

Honda civic d16z6 turbo DIY First, be careful where you buy your turbo. Look for signs of leakage or carbon on the compressor side. Look for cracks in the exhaust housing, inside and out. Even check for stripped bolts on the housings. If you buy new, you pay more for a piece of mind that you don’t have to worry. Be careful with ‘ebay’ turbos, you get what you pay for. Some people have had great luck with these, others have had them literally split in half. You can buy a kit which installs easier, but you don’t always get the most WHP for your dollar.

max hp on a stage one turbo system 05-06 gsxr 1000

You may also wonder if the unit is reading boost correctly — since this is a digital gauge, it might be tough to see what you are actually boosting to. I’m trying to find another one that I ran across so I can add that link. Here are my thoughts on the process. Wiring I ran the Greddy control solenoid wiring by starting up at the front of the car.

I tried a foam filter because of the tight space.

This kit is capable of to horsepower with proper supporting modifications! Boost is controlled by a 44mm Wastegate and pressure releif is handled by a 50mm Blow-off Valve. All needed hoses, lines, couplers, clamps, brackets, and hardware are included. On3 does not guarantee fitment with any other k-member. Modification Required While this 4. Some modifications and relocations will be required!

A History: ’s Word of the Year

Joined Jun 29, Madison, Wisconsin There has been a lot of speculation and misinformation regarding installation of a manual boost controller MBC. Many people use the blow off valve BOV line as a pressure source. Installing this way can cause many disruptions.

After you do this you can even start placing the Turbo s and Intercooler s in place and then start making the intercooler to turbo pipes.

I’d like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread and also the creator of mod! I just have a few questions I was hoping a few of our forum gurus could chime in on. I hope none of these questions are extremely stupid since I’m really new to this vehicle and turbos in general. Please bare with my newbness. Standard wastegate pressure is 0. I don’t think you will face any of the issues mentioned in that thread.. I’ll only see a possibility of shortening the lifespan of the stock actuator by preloading it if it does, I’ll make sure I post it: D For an untuned car, you actually don’t get much gain ;..

BUT the response of the engine is changed.. You should have no worries with AFR.. I posted in another thread that the ECU is programmed to cut timing and increase fuelling as your boost increases.. Obviously increasing boost puts you closer to the limits set by Mitsubishi..

What Does a Blow Off Valve Do?


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